Mounting & Setting Types
One of the most common and popular settings, the prong setting is used for all types of faceted stones. A typical prong setting will have either 4 or 6 prongs.
In the bezel setting, the diamond is set deep inside of the mounting, then by using a burnishing tool; the metal is folded over the stone to create a strip with holds the diamond in place. This setting can be used for any type of stone.
The channel setting can be used for any type of stone. After the channel is created, the goldsmith will cut seats in the channel where the diamond will sit. Then after each diamond is placed in the channel, the goldsmith hammers the upper sides of the channel walls to secure the stones in place.
Pavé settings are made up of lots of small gemstones, often diamonds, set closely together. The gems are separated and held in place by little beads of the setting metal. The result is what looks like a continuous surface of diamonds or other gems.
The tension setting is a relatively new setting, where “springing” which is a metal’s physical characteristic is used to hold a faceted stone in place. Tension setting can only be used with gemstones with a hardness level of 9 or up. The diamond is set in small grooved which are cut at the ends of the shank. The amount of pressure exerted on the girdle of the stone in place is 65-95 lbs., which is why the tension setting is one of the most secure.
Similar to that of the channel setting, the diamonds are set in between bars. The diamonds are nested in grooves and overlapped by metal using the hammering tool. This setting also requires for gemstones to have a hardness level of at least 9.